Posts Tagged ‘Painting’

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Sometimes you just have too many things on the go

and I have reached overload, arrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhh.

On the work table as I type:

1. Laser cut 28mm radar built but not painted.
2. 3 Infinty Fusiliers about to be glued.
3. Saito Togan 28mm Infinity built but not painted.
4. 15mm Bergepanzer III, scratch built & half painted by airbrush.
5. 15mm Opel Blitz truck built but not painted.
6. SDkfz 251 built but not painted.
7. Hawker Typhoon 15mm built and 85% painted.
8. 2 large Normandy terrain boards 50% completed & painted.
9. 2 mini diorama boards just started(28mm).
10. 1 mini diorama board just started(15mm).
11. Large Normandy town house 75% completed and painted.
12. 3 Order Sgts Infinity 28mm 80% complete.
13. 5 ornate Scibor minatures bases attempting to paint to
a professional standard(95% complete).
14. 3 Chaos dogs 28mm 90% complete with no master as yet.
15. Large Infinity terrain boards times 6(metre square each) at the
drawing and planning stage.
16. 40k Ultramarine dreadnought.

On top of this like everybody else I have a large box of future

projects as well. Which future that will be is anybody’s guess lol

So I`m going to have a painting\building fest and put a huge dent

in my backlog. February was a lean month by my standards and my

blog as been a bit quiet, but fear not avid readers.

March is going to be crazy, hang on in there as I break the 100

posts mark.

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If you know who this guy is then the book coming out shortly

is a must. Angel Giraldez is an expert at painting Infinity

figures and a daemon with an airbrush. The book is limited to

a run of 5500 and comes with a one off specially sculpted figure

of Joan Of Arc(see above). Even if your not an Infinity fan you just have

to admire his work and detail.

If you want the book there are various places pre-ordering the

book now, but hurry as the book will sell out fast and will not

be re-printed.

Official blurb below :

Masterclass Vol.1

“If there is a date which is important to me is the October 24th of 2013. That day I decided to start a new stage in my career, a step up to become a better artist. This new goal was to release a painting book to show and teach my personal painting techniques applied to the Infinity models.”

In that moment Angel decided to start a new adventure. And now Corvus Belli is pleased to present you “Masterclass Vol.1”, the first painting book by Angel Giraldez.

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Ángel has matured as an artist within Corvus Belli, and his tireless work has earned him a place among the foremost professional miniature painters in the world.
This manual describes, in meticulously detailed step-by-step tutorials accompanied by hundreds of full-color pictures, how Ángel applies his technique to some truly extraordinary Infinity pieces.

With the book, you could find an exclusive model that has been totally and re-designed and re-sculpted of the special character Joan of Arc. This model follows the new PanOceania design as featured in the “Infinity. Operation: Icestorm” Battle Pack.

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Check out his facebook page or blog to get a taste

of his work.

http://www.studiogiraldez.blogspot.co.uk/

https://www.facebook.com/StudioGiraldez

Also check this video out : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7g_s6q0068g&feature=youtu.be

Hope you get lucky and get a copy.

I have been wanting to do a tutorial on painting

for ages and I finally remembered to take photos of

my work as I went along. This tutorial is aimed at

getting a basic to good standard on a 15mm Sherman or

any allied vehicle without using an airbrush. I use

a combination of Vallejo and GW paints.

Step 1: I assembled more or less entire the tank.Some

people leave the tracks off for painting.

Click on any picture in the tutorial to enlarge.

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I sprayed the

entire tank with Chaos Black primer. Leave for 24hrs.

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Step 2: Using a brush touch up any areas that the spray

can missed with Chaos Black GW paint. Just brush it on.

Step 3 : With a flat brush gently brush on Vallejo 924

Russian uniform over the whole tank. Please note at this

stage its not going to look great but bare with it. Also ensure

you brush strokes are in one direction down the length of the tank.

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Step 4: Another coat of Vallejo 924 exactly the same

as before. It should now start to look better.

Step 5: Finally another coat of 924 and the colour should

be perfect.

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Step 6: GW Agrax wash(basically a black wash). Gently put

it in all the small gaps and places shadow will sit. Do

not wash it all over the tank ! Don’t forget to do the tracks and

areas in-between and behind.

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Step 7: Drybrush 886 Vallejo Green Grey using a flat brush

over all the raised parts. This will give you a good

highlight against the 924.

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Step 8:
Decals time. Carefully cut out to size and put on

your decals. I put mine on with Micro Set and leave them to

dry over night.

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Step 9:
Next up is the tracks. Some people as mentioned add

the tracks later making it easier to get your paint brush into

the area under the mud guards. Its up to you but I find it

possible with a small brush. Paint the tracks black.

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Step 10 : First I use a HB pencil to literally

draw on the tracks leaving a silver shiny track look. Don’t go mad.

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Step 11: Vallejo 818 Red leather dry brushed(small amount) onto the

tracks.

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Step 12 : I then stuck on the wooden stowage and painted it Vallejo

Flat Brown. You can paint the tool handles at the same time. Later

highlight with GW Tallarn sand or Vallejo New Wood.

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Step 13 : Tool heads and clasps are painted GW Leadbelcher and later

highlighted with GW Chainmail. Finally add an agrax wash.

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Step 14: Optional weathering. Light dry brush of Flat earth on tracks

and lower running gear and bottom areas of the tank.

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Step 15: Optional adding crew. The commander was added and I used GW

green stuff to back fill the large gap in the commander’s cupola and help

stick the twin opening hatches on. The commander was painted with English Uniform

followed by an agrax wash. I used GW Tallarn sand for highlights.

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Step 16 : Testors Dullcote varnish spray to make sure your paintwork is

protected.

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I hope this tutorial was helpful and will make it easier for some

people to get started in the hobby without having to become master

painters. The picture below is what the finished product looks like

with a nice backdrop behind it and in the correct lighting conditions.

I think my tutorial pictures had a bit too much light in them giving

the tank an incorrect shiny look.

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Happy painting .

Been reading a lot recently and I thought I would

share my views on some of the content.

1st The Americans at Normandy by John C.Mcmanus

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One of the best books around and a very detailed account

of what the Americans did after they got off the beaches at

the Normandy landings. This book goes into great detail about

the lives of everyday soldiers and the problems they had to

overcome at great cost. Its still unbelievable after all the

planning that went into D-Day that not a thought was given

to the bocage countryside awaiting them, which would

prove a far greater obstacle than any beach defence and cost

a huge amount of lives. Compelling reading beginning to end.

2nd WWII Diorama Art by Roy Wells

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This is the first book I have bought off Blurb and I was

extremely pleased with it. Its basically 1/35 scale models

set up in beautiful dioramas but we are talking serious,

serious high quality work. The book covers 20 detailed projects

with high quality glossy images of the superb work. You also get

an inside look towards the end on how the dioramas are built.

For me its something I just pick up now and again when I need

a bit of inspiration or want something to drool over.

3rd Painting Wargame tanks by Ruben Torregrosa & Mig Jimenez

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For those of you that recognise the name, “Jimenez” you

probably know what your going to get and your right. Lots

of painting guides using Mig paints(Vallejo) and pigments.

Lots of glossy step by step guides on painting tanks ,including

an early Sherman, Stuart M5 and a Panther Ausf G, Panzer IV,

Panzer III, SDKFZ 251, T34 and Tiger. The book is also split

up into a beginners section and advanced painter.

All in all a good buy with lots of mouth watering pictures.

4th Painting war WWII German Army by Heresybrush

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I found this book on http://www.breakingwar.com and also on

http://www.heresybrush.com and its a lovely painting guide on

WWII German soldiers. What makes it really specially is that

includes step by step guides on different size models so

even 15mm is catered for. Once again the guide is Vallejo

paint only but this seems to be the norm in most military

painting these days. This is a very detailed guide and on

looking at the contents covers just about every German uniform

going and more. A must for any miniature German soldier painter.

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I hope you liked my reading material and the very quick reviews. All

four were good value for money and are very well presented books.

More soon….

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“Click above picture to enlarge”

I think it was the artwork, no it was the

attractive sci fi scenery, no it was the cool

metal figures or was it the low start up price ?

I think in all honestly it was all of them plus

all these mouth watering blogs showing me what

I`m missing out on.

So without further a do I borrowed a spare figure

from a friend and decided to see what I could do

with it and hopefully not scare him with the outcome.

So for me this was a test piece and a giant leap for

40ktermiantus kind into the world of Infinity.

The figure I was kindly loaned(the threat of fairy

green stuff being used if the paintjob was bad focused

my mind) is a Druze Shock Trooper belonging to the

Mercs(Please correct me if wrong ?) and is holding

a spitfire weapon( Please correct me if wrong ?).

Being a test run I went with the standard colour

scheme of a Druze as per the web site glossy

shop front. Please note I found the Infinity web

site beautiful to look at,full of helpful

information and friendly people on the forum.

First thing a noticed about these

figures was the high amount of miniature detail

which is truly stunning. It also makes painting

what looks like a simple 28mm a lot harder.

Anyway after playing around with the colours and

checking out the glossy web shots(Not

many ready made paint schemes out on the net yet as

the product is quiet new) I came up with the colour

scheme below. I had to change a few colours as I went along

because I was not happy with them but overall it came out

not too bad in my eyes.

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“Click above picture to enlarge”

The final judging was down to my friend and you will be glad

to hear the fairy spray was not brought into use.

If your an Infinity fan or painter of these figures I would

love to hear your view on my efforts and any improvements

you would make. I think I might go for a camouflage Druze

test figure next ?

If you want to know more about Infinity the game, visit

http://www.infinitythegame.com/ or check out this

dudes site http://www.studiogiraldez.blogspot.co.uk/ ,

because he really knows what he`s doing 🙂

One more question for you Infinity painters is how do

you get the paint colour to look so glossy/shiny or is it

that only the web photos look like that ?

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First time I have done a tutorial so go easy on

me 🙂 This is an simple tutorial on how to

assemble the Najewitz Modellbau Normandy

farmstead,add a few extras and paint it all up.

Just got to mention before I start that my

inspiration for this was a thread by somebody

called “raphaeloudsen” on DakkaDakka

who for reasons unknown is un-contactable and thus

I was never able to ask him how he did his masterful

work which was a lot better than mine.

For 45 euros you get a house, a barn , a sort of a hay

loft, an out building , a large gate with roof and a

large section of walls. You basically get a bag of bits

that look like this.

Click on a picture to enlarge it.

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Step 1: As with all resin kits it has small amounts of

flash on it that will need to be removed either with a

sharp craft knife or small file. Once its all removed I

washed all the bits in warm water to ensure it was clean

for assembly.

Step 2 : Before gluing I cut out floors(made from balsa)

to go inside the buildings. This way you can have two

floors for figures inside the buildings.

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Step 3 : I now glued the buildings together using small

G type clamps. When the glue was dry I glued in supports

for balsa wood floors. I used a mixture of balsa and

plasticard(its hidden so nobody will see). Once dry

glue in your floors(leave top floor un-glued). Fill

any gaps in the buildings with green stuff.

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Step 4 : I wanted the farm not to be fixed to my

terrain board for storage and so that it could be

moved around. To solve this I decided to fix the

entire farm to a plasticard sheet. The idea was to

fix the walls and gates permanently but leave the

buildings free. I used a standard 29.5cm x 20.5 cm

white plasticard sheet and about 3cm depth. Before

any painting I marked out where my buildings were

going to go on the plasticard and especially

important how the walls would all connect. One

small problem I noticed was that the gate is too

small for a tank so I left an opening in the wall

system for tank access. At this point you should

have glued all your walls together(they come in two

parts) and cut them to size to fit the base.

Step 5 : Painting. I used a mixture of GW , Vallejo and

P3 paints but anything will do. The colours of Normandy

buildings vary so don’t get the idea that my colour scheme

is the only one you can do.

The list below is just for walls, not the roof, windows

and doors. I tried not dry brush over the same areas thus

giving different colours across the brick work.

1. I base coated all the buildings and walls GW Chaos black.
2. I dry brushed everything Vallejo Flat Earth.
3. I dry brushed everything GW Dawnstone.
4. I dry brushed everything Vallejo Stone Grey 884.
5. I dry brushed everything P3 Troll blood in wavy lines.
6. I dry brushed everything GW Steel Legion in wavy lines.
7. The next painting stage consists of picking out bricks. Basically
paint a couple of bricks here and there is a random method. So first
up I used Vallejo Red Leather.
8. GW Tallarn Sand brick picking.
9. GW Mechanicus Standard Grey brick picking.
10. GW Gothor Brown brick picking.
11. GW Agrax Earthshade wash over all the brickwork.

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Doors: Wooden doors and shutters were painted GW Loren Forest.
Window Frames : GW Bleached Bone.
Window and Doors Sills : GW Baneblade Brown.
Drain Pipes : P3 Traitor Green.
Other Doors : Vallejo Flat Brown.
Doors, shutters & sills GW Agrax wash.

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Roof: GW Aldorf Blue dry brush.
Roof: GW Agrax Earth shade wash.

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Step 6 : I now glued the finished walls to the plasticard

base in the carefully marked out locations. I also glued the

gate in place.
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Once dry I used light household filler to

build up the ground to the walls and normal base scatter/grit

for the farm yard floor. The farm floor was drybrushed Flat Brown,

then Baneblade brown and finally Dawnstone.

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The wooden fence at

the rear was scratch built from balsa. The hay is made from

door mat bristles.

Nearly forgot I used green stuff to fill in any gaps in the

walls and then painted as described earlier.

Step 7 : Foliage. I now added foliage as desired . Most of

the foliage is from Treemendus and is stuck on with PVA glue.

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Step 8: The fascia boards(roof edging) were made from

Plasticard right angle and painted Loren Forest. Simply stick

on with glue. I also played with the idea on using artist

foil on the top of the roof but never got round to it. It

looks just like lead when painted up.

Step 9 : The telegraph poles are from Foreground(concrete

style) and were stuck down with filler and blended in with

foliage. They were painted black and then dry brushed Dawn

stone. The telephone wire is Oasis galvanised hobby wire

(30G x 7) and is cunningly attached. There is a scratch

built joint on the side of the farm house and the wire is

not glued to the telegraph pole but has enough tension to

easily be clipped to the pole. In the picture below the

wire is glued to the house wall(right red arrow) and goes

through the joint and then rests on the telegraph

pole(left red arrow) looking for all intense

purposes to be joined.

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I used the same method at

each end of the plasticard base so you can lift the

plasticard base up and you don’t rip the poles out.

In the picture below the red arrows are where the wire

joins. Its not glued in place but just resting. Its glued

at the poles left and right of the arrows so the plasticard

can be easily lifted up.

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The wire

basically has enough spring and tension to hold itself up.

Where the wire is attached I used good old super glue.

I`m sure there are a few bits left out so feel free to

ask any questions and I hope it helps 🙂

Two Ultramarine Landspeeders painted in different blues

and painted 2 years apart.

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I painted the one on left(no rockets) just over

2 yrs ago in the traditional faded blue colour.

Basically, Macragge Blue, Drakenhof Nighshade,

Altdorf Guard and Calgar Blue.

This a gives a dusty, weathered blue look and I did a basic job.

The newer Landspeeder is more in the modern blue/purple look that

Ultramarines are going. Colour wise its roughly Kantor Blue,Altdorf

Guard and Fenrisian Grey.

This for me is a more an experimental colour as it involves mixing

3 basic colours with each other to get darker and lighter shades

of blue. So much so, I would find it hard to get an exact match again.

I have improved detail wise but I like the old dusty, weathered looking

Ultramarine style to the newer clean look.

Which do you prefer ?

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Nearly finished my 15mm British Platoon and to help me

with the painting I bought ,” The World War II Tommy”

by Martin Brayley and Richard Ingram and what an excellent

book it is. I have read and owned a couple of uniform guide

books before but this just leaves everything else behind.

Rich, colour photographs and loads of them covering all

uniforms between 1939-45 plus detailed descriptions of all

the kit and weapons. It even covers hospital clothing.

I found this book especially helpful for identifying what

exactly the bit of equipment you are painting as 15mm figures

have tiny bits on them(when sprayed with a black base coat

it makes things even harder to make out). What also stands

out is the photographs themselves. They have been modelled

perfectly with WWII back drops and if turned to black and

white would be hard to distinguish from the real thing.

This book is the one stop resource for everything British

for the painter, modeller and wargamer.

Hope he plans to do a German and American book next 🙂

To quote AR Turner,”Not just light at the end of the tunnel,

but glorious chaotic light

I know its not everything finished but its a start 🙂

Please click on images for a bigger picture.

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Now that my painters block has been removed(excuses, excuses)

I should be able to finish the rest.

Yes its taking an age, but that old problem beer keeps

getting in the way 🙂

Slow progress but there is light finally at the end of the tunnel.

Bases yet to do, chevrons and fine detail.

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The rhino is still without paint but now with plough and hounds.

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Still have not started my Warsmith but I do have a chosen

model for conversion(top secret) and the candidates who failed

for the job are going to be Command/HQ extras.