Archive for the ‘Tutorial’ Category

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You might of noticed that my previous post called,

More completed Loic Neveu 15mm terrain” had a hint

of something more to come ? Well about 3 months ago

I noticed that I had been using a large amount of useful

information(tutorials and painting guides) from a few select

blogs and websites. One particular site I am very fond of is

Modeldads and as a way of saying thank you for all the

excellent posts on that site I decided to give something back

in the way of a painting tutorial for the Loic Neveu 15mm building

pictured below.

.Ruin3

So happy Christmas modeldads and thank you Justin for allowing

me to contribute to your fantastic site.

Please check out the tutorial and the other great posts

on modeldads.

I have been wanting to do a tutorial on painting

for ages and I finally remembered to take photos of

my work as I went along. This tutorial is aimed at

getting a basic to good standard on a 15mm Sherman or

any allied vehicle without using an airbrush. I use

a combination of Vallejo and GW paints.

Step 1: I assembled more or less entire the tank.Some

people leave the tracks off for painting.

Click on any picture in the tutorial to enlarge.

Tut_4

I sprayed the

entire tank with Chaos Black primer. Leave for 24hrs.

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Step 2: Using a brush touch up any areas that the spray

can missed with Chaos Black GW paint. Just brush it on.

Step 3 : With a flat brush gently brush on Vallejo 924

Russian uniform over the whole tank. Please note at this

stage its not going to look great but bare with it. Also ensure

you brush strokes are in one direction down the length of the tank.

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Step 4: Another coat of Vallejo 924 exactly the same

as before. It should now start to look better.

Step 5: Finally another coat of 924 and the colour should

be perfect.

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Step 6: GW Agrax wash(basically a black wash). Gently put

it in all the small gaps and places shadow will sit. Do

not wash it all over the tank ! Don’t forget to do the tracks and

areas in-between and behind.

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Step 7: Drybrush 886 Vallejo Green Grey using a flat brush

over all the raised parts. This will give you a good

highlight against the 924.

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Step 8:
Decals time. Carefully cut out to size and put on

your decals. I put mine on with Micro Set and leave them to

dry over night.

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Step 9:
Next up is the tracks. Some people as mentioned add

the tracks later making it easier to get your paint brush into

the area under the mud guards. Its up to you but I find it

possible with a small brush. Paint the tracks black.

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Step 10 : First I use a HB pencil to literally

draw on the tracks leaving a silver shiny track look. Don’t go mad.

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Step 11: Vallejo 818 Red leather dry brushed(small amount) onto the

tracks.

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Step 12 : I then stuck on the wooden stowage and painted it Vallejo

Flat Brown. You can paint the tool handles at the same time. Later

highlight with GW Tallarn sand or Vallejo New Wood.

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Step 13 : Tool heads and clasps are painted GW Leadbelcher and later

highlighted with GW Chainmail. Finally add an agrax wash.

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Step 14: Optional weathering. Light dry brush of Flat earth on tracks

and lower running gear and bottom areas of the tank.

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Step 15: Optional adding crew. The commander was added and I used GW

green stuff to back fill the large gap in the commander’s cupola and help

stick the twin opening hatches on. The commander was painted with English Uniform

followed by an agrax wash. I used GW Tallarn sand for highlights.

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Step 16 : Testors Dullcote varnish spray to make sure your paintwork is

protected.

………………………………………………………..
I hope this tutorial was helpful and will make it easier for some

people to get started in the hobby without having to become master

painters. The picture below is what the finished product looks like

with a nice backdrop behind it and in the correct lighting conditions.

I think my tutorial pictures had a bit too much light in them giving

the tank an incorrect shiny look.

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Happy painting .

IMG_7843a

First time I have done a tutorial so go easy on

me 🙂 This is an simple tutorial on how to

assemble the Najewitz Modellbau Normandy

farmstead,add a few extras and paint it all up.

Just got to mention before I start that my

inspiration for this was a thread by somebody

called “raphaeloudsen” on DakkaDakka

who for reasons unknown is un-contactable and thus

I was never able to ask him how he did his masterful

work which was a lot better than mine.

For 45 euros you get a house, a barn , a sort of a hay

loft, an out building , a large gate with roof and a

large section of walls. You basically get a bag of bits

that look like this.

Click on a picture to enlarge it.

IMG_7861a

Step 1: As with all resin kits it has small amounts of

flash on it that will need to be removed either with a

sharp craft knife or small file. Once its all removed I

washed all the bits in warm water to ensure it was clean

for assembly.

Step 2 : Before gluing I cut out floors(made from balsa)

to go inside the buildings. This way you can have two

floors for figures inside the buildings.

IMG_7854a

Step 3 : I now glued the buildings together using small

G type clamps. When the glue was dry I glued in supports

for balsa wood floors. I used a mixture of balsa and

plasticard(its hidden so nobody will see). Once dry

glue in your floors(leave top floor un-glued). Fill

any gaps in the buildings with green stuff.

IMG_7406a

Step 4 : I wanted the farm not to be fixed to my

terrain board for storage and so that it could be

moved around. To solve this I decided to fix the

entire farm to a plasticard sheet. The idea was to

fix the walls and gates permanently but leave the

buildings free. I used a standard 29.5cm x 20.5 cm

white plasticard sheet and about 3cm depth. Before

any painting I marked out where my buildings were

going to go on the plasticard and especially

important how the walls would all connect. One

small problem I noticed was that the gate is too

small for a tank so I left an opening in the wall

system for tank access. At this point you should

have glued all your walls together(they come in two

parts) and cut them to size to fit the base.

Step 5 : Painting. I used a mixture of GW , Vallejo and

P3 paints but anything will do. The colours of Normandy

buildings vary so don’t get the idea that my colour scheme

is the only one you can do.

The list below is just for walls, not the roof, windows

and doors. I tried not dry brush over the same areas thus

giving different colours across the brick work.

1. I base coated all the buildings and walls GW Chaos black.
2. I dry brushed everything Vallejo Flat Earth.
3. I dry brushed everything GW Dawnstone.
4. I dry brushed everything Vallejo Stone Grey 884.
5. I dry brushed everything P3 Troll blood in wavy lines.
6. I dry brushed everything GW Steel Legion in wavy lines.
7. The next painting stage consists of picking out bricks. Basically
paint a couple of bricks here and there is a random method. So first
up I used Vallejo Red Leather.
8. GW Tallarn Sand brick picking.
9. GW Mechanicus Standard Grey brick picking.
10. GW Gothor Brown brick picking.
11. GW Agrax Earthshade wash over all the brickwork.

IMG_7525a

Doors: Wooden doors and shutters were painted GW Loren Forest.
Window Frames : GW Bleached Bone.
Window and Doors Sills : GW Baneblade Brown.
Drain Pipes : P3 Traitor Green.
Other Doors : Vallejo Flat Brown.
Doors, shutters & sills GW Agrax wash.

IMG_7580a

Roof: GW Aldorf Blue dry brush.
Roof: GW Agrax Earth shade wash.

IMG_7515a

Step 6 : I now glued the finished walls to the plasticard

base in the carefully marked out locations. I also glued the

gate in place.
IMG_7531a

Once dry I used light household filler to

build up the ground to the walls and normal base scatter/grit

for the farm yard floor. The farm floor was drybrushed Flat Brown,

then Baneblade brown and finally Dawnstone.

IMG_7578a

The wooden fence at

the rear was scratch built from balsa. The hay is made from

door mat bristles.

Nearly forgot I used green stuff to fill in any gaps in the

walls and then painted as described earlier.

Step 7 : Foliage. I now added foliage as desired . Most of

the foliage is from Treemendus and is stuck on with PVA glue.

IMG_7729a

Step 8: The fascia boards(roof edging) were made from

Plasticard right angle and painted Loren Forest. Simply stick

on with glue. I also played with the idea on using artist

foil on the top of the roof but never got round to it. It

looks just like lead when painted up.

Step 9 : The telegraph poles are from Foreground(concrete

style) and were stuck down with filler and blended in with

foliage. They were painted black and then dry brushed Dawn

stone. The telephone wire is Oasis galvanised hobby wire

(30G x 7) and is cunningly attached. There is a scratch

built joint on the side of the farm house and the wire is

not glued to the telegraph pole but has enough tension to

easily be clipped to the pole. In the picture below the

wire is glued to the house wall(right red arrow) and goes

through the joint and then rests on the telegraph

pole(left red arrow) looking for all intense

purposes to be joined.

IMG_7816a

I used the same method at

each end of the plasticard base so you can lift the

plasticard base up and you don’t rip the poles out.

In the picture below the red arrows are where the wire

joins. Its not glued in place but just resting. Its glued

at the poles left and right of the arrows so the plasticard

can be easily lifted up.

IMG_7857a

The wire

basically has enough spring and tension to hold itself up.

Where the wire is attached I used good old super glue.

I`m sure there are a few bits left out so feel free to

ask any questions and I hope it helps 🙂