Posts Tagged ‘WW2’

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I have recently been doing a lot of reading

up on Zimmerit and the mystery surrounding its

limited time span of use.

Zimmerit was a non-magnetic coating produced for German AFV`s

during WW II for the purpose of combating magnetically attached

anti-tank mines. It was developed by the German company Chemische

Werke Zimmer AG and used from 1943-1944. It was basically a cement

type coating which provided small gaps and uneven ridges on the

outside of the tanks stopping magnetic mines being attached.

Strangely the Germans came up with the idea after inventing a

magnetic mine of their own(the Hafthohlladung 3 Mine) specially

to be used against tanks.

The picture below shows a Hafthohlladung courtesy of the

Bunderarchive.

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Unfortunately the Germans believed because

they had created such a mine the allies would surely follow and thus

the invention of zimmerit. In a strange irony the allies never did use

magnetic tank mines.

Zimmerit was applied to tanks as far as I`m aware at the factory and

not in the field. The following description of how zimmerit is applied

is taken from various factual sources including the Haynes Tiger Tank manual,

Military Classic Vehicles, the Bovington archive and the Mike Gibb stug

restoration project.

Zimmerit was made from zinc sulphide, barium sulphate,pine saw dust,

PVA,peeble dust,ochre and pine crystals. The process involves dissolving

the pine crystals in a large quantity of benzene(which is highly flammable and I will come back

to this at a later stage). This creates a sticky golden liquid which

when added to the other ingredients helps the PVA adhere and harden.

Next you are required to trowl on the material to the AFV applying

ridges in a set pattern(they are a number of different patterns). Firstly

a 2mm layer is applied and then from 5cm away a blow lamp is

used to harden and burn off excess moisture. This results in

significant fires. 4 hours or more later a second 4mm layer is

added in the same way. As an example a Stug would require 100kg

of zimmerit to cover it correctly.

Once dry(at least 72hrs) the surface can be painted.

Below is a picture of the zimmerit found on Tiger II.

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This is zimmerit on a Stug III

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The German high command decided in 1944 to stop applying zimmerit

to AFV`s for various reasons. The obvious being it was not needed

as the allies did not use magnetic tank mines , plus is was costly

and time consuming. A further,discarded reason was that

there were reports coming back from the front that zimmerit was

flammable ?

This is the point that interested me in the subject to start

with and has been frowned apon by the military forums for years

and to me it seemed strange. If reports are coming back from front

line units that zimmerit is flammable and is burning up tanks why

disregard the theory point blank,which is what people have been

doing right up until Mike Gibb put people in the picture.

The key to the issue is the benzene and temperature. The application

of zimmerit as described above only works if its warm. If its cold a

number of issues occur. Cold weather stops the benzene from hardening

properly(this cannot be seen by the naked eye or by touch). This un-

hardened surface is then painted over and the paint locks into the benzene

which has not evaporated. The result is a AFV being sent out into combat

just waiting for a round to ignite the benzene!

Now add to the boiling pot that most of the reports are coming back from

the Eastern Front in 43-44 of zimmerit fires where the temperature is hitting

minus 40 in the winter. Plus Germany is losing the war so the need to rush

tanks out of the factory faster and faster creates a time bomb waiting to

ignite, literally.

A number of nations tested the flammable zimmerit theory after the war

and were unable to get it to burn but they were unaware of the application

problem in cold weather and most likely used a correctly applied zimmerit

vehicle that had seen action. We will never know ?

One other thing about zimmerit that was not intended but was a pleasant

surprise noticed by German and Allied tank commanders alike was its

camouflage characteristics . It naturally created an anti-shine to any

tank that had it and broke up the outline of the tank.

Below is a link to the Weald Foundation and Wheatcroft Collection that

restore AFV`s and collected and tested the info on the zimmerit :

http://www.thetankchannel.com/sdkfzstugiii.html

http://www.wheatcroftcollection.com/

Hope you liked the brief explanation on zimmerit and please get

in touch if you know of any extra information. Its always good

to learn a little more. I would be especially interested in

any information on field application of the stuff as there are

a few suggestions on the net about it but no solid proof as yet.

Bovington Tank Museum

Posted: May 25, 2015 in Reviews, Wargaming, WW2
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I decided to take the wife for a day out at the sea side

yesterday and it just so happened that the route

went right past a tank a museum so I had to have

a look. Yes your correct she didn’t believe that for

a second but it was worth a try.

Back to the subject in hand and what a fantastic tank

museum Bovington is. Its in deep dark Dorset and about 15mins

from the South coast so it was near the sea lol.

Now I have only posted up a select few pictures to give

you a taster but I must of taken 300 plus photos easy. Its

the boring photos that are the most important and interesting

to me the modeller. Tiny little things like different types of zimmerit and

the way it is applied ,how air intakes are aligned, the way wheels overlap

between tracks and tiny details that are left off 15mm models that I can add

myself.

Just looking at weld seams is interesting to somebody that

loves detail. You also you need to stand next to some tanks

to get a feel for the size and power of the thing(the Jagdtiger

would be a great example of a beast of a machine).

If you ever think of going its better than all the write ups.

Probably the best tank and AFV collection in the world plus they

have a fully working Tiger tank. Plus its only £13 to get it and

gives you a free entry for a year.

Other plus points are that they have an open day once a year called

“Tankfest” where the tanks are let out and strut their stuff and the

local wargaming club holds its wargaming events between the tanks.

Click on any picture to enlarge it.

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Sorry the pictures are all WW2, there are all periods

of tank covered at the museum.

One small word of warning, there

is a huge shop and its impossible not to buy something.

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I`m done until I build some more boards and yes

I hear you all groaning… not more boards !!!!

No my next project will be some Infinity boards so

rest easy.

Anyway back to the Normandy boards. I have added and finished

two new boards to make a total of six for the playing

area(4 x 6). The latest two have a nice river obstacle with

hump back bridge. They also contain a fixed defensive trench

line and artillery battery area. The artillery battery area and trench

line are camouflaged to stop the allied Typhoons rocketing the

hell out of place.

Please note you can click on all pictures to enlarge

and some of the pictures are quite big.

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I have added a full Panzer Lehr Division and the British 11th

Armoured Division to the board so you can see how it all feels

to play with.

Arty preparing to fire.

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Target spotted.

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View from above.

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Look out the boss is watching.

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Life in the trenches.

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Ok whos walked mud into the trench ?

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British forces prepare to enter the bocage.

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Panthers trying to deploy in bocage.

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Panzer Grenadiers moving up to join the action.

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German infantry moving up.

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Panthers stuck in a sunken lane.

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MKIV in ambush position.

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Moaning minnies at home in the thick hedgerows.

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Halftrack traffic jam plus a bit of anti air.

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Anybody bring any hedge cutters ?

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Hold on, hump back bridge.

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Lost Panzer IV.

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JagderPanzer IV`s defending the left flank.

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Thankfully the sun came out and allowed me to take the

photos above.

I will post up a battle report soon to see how bocage fighting

pans out 🙂

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Just click on an image to enlarge :

Its a Revel Micro Wings Hawker Typhoon 1B

which comes as an unpainted 1:144 scale kit at

tiny cost of £2.99. The reason I went for this kit

is simply the price. The equivalent plane from

Battlefront is £11.50 plus P & P so I`m onto a winner

straight away.

Now apart from a few plane kits when I was about 10 yrs

old this was all new to me. For a start the kit is

absolutely tiny so unless you have the fingers of a church

mouse your going to have problems. Some of the parts are so

small I needed tweezers to hold them. On top of the that the

kit is not the best quality in the world but for £2.99 I`m

not moaning. I followed the Flames of War rough paint guide

which used Vallejo colours and did all the stripes by free

hand which you probably guessed by the not so straight lines.

Overall I produced a basic table top paint job. Three things that

bugged me about this kit were the rockets under the wings which

were just bad quality model kit, the cockpit which fails to have

enough model detail and the decals. The decals were intended to

go over a non D-Day black and white striped plane so don’t look

correct.

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The photo below is the same as the black and white photo and

without the stand being edited out.

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Finally I think a taller stand is needed ?

Anyway I`m off to straff some unprepared German armour 🙂

I have been wanting to do a tutorial on painting

for ages and I finally remembered to take photos of

my work as I went along. This tutorial is aimed at

getting a basic to good standard on a 15mm Sherman or

any allied vehicle without using an airbrush. I use

a combination of Vallejo and GW paints.

Step 1: I assembled more or less entire the tank.Some

people leave the tracks off for painting.

Click on any picture in the tutorial to enlarge.

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I sprayed the

entire tank with Chaos Black primer. Leave for 24hrs.

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Step 2: Using a brush touch up any areas that the spray

can missed with Chaos Black GW paint. Just brush it on.

Step 3 : With a flat brush gently brush on Vallejo 924

Russian uniform over the whole tank. Please note at this

stage its not going to look great but bare with it. Also ensure

you brush strokes are in one direction down the length of the tank.

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Step 4: Another coat of Vallejo 924 exactly the same

as before. It should now start to look better.

Step 5: Finally another coat of 924 and the colour should

be perfect.

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Step 6: GW Agrax wash(basically a black wash). Gently put

it in all the small gaps and places shadow will sit. Do

not wash it all over the tank ! Don’t forget to do the tracks and

areas in-between and behind.

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Step 7: Drybrush 886 Vallejo Green Grey using a flat brush

over all the raised parts. This will give you a good

highlight against the 924.

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Step 8:
Decals time. Carefully cut out to size and put on

your decals. I put mine on with Micro Set and leave them to

dry over night.

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Step 9:
Next up is the tracks. Some people as mentioned add

the tracks later making it easier to get your paint brush into

the area under the mud guards. Its up to you but I find it

possible with a small brush. Paint the tracks black.

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Step 10 : First I use a HB pencil to literally

draw on the tracks leaving a silver shiny track look. Don’t go mad.

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Step 11: Vallejo 818 Red leather dry brushed(small amount) onto the

tracks.

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Step 12 : I then stuck on the wooden stowage and painted it Vallejo

Flat Brown. You can paint the tool handles at the same time. Later

highlight with GW Tallarn sand or Vallejo New Wood.

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Step 13 : Tool heads and clasps are painted GW Leadbelcher and later

highlighted with GW Chainmail. Finally add an agrax wash.

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Step 14: Optional weathering. Light dry brush of Flat earth on tracks

and lower running gear and bottom areas of the tank.

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Step 15: Optional adding crew. The commander was added and I used GW

green stuff to back fill the large gap in the commander’s cupola and help

stick the twin opening hatches on. The commander was painted with English Uniform

followed by an agrax wash. I used GW Tallarn sand for highlights.

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Step 16 : Testors Dullcote varnish spray to make sure your paintwork is

protected.

………………………………………………………..
I hope this tutorial was helpful and will make it easier for some

people to get started in the hobby without having to become master

painters. The picture below is what the finished product looks like

with a nice backdrop behind it and in the correct lighting conditions.

I think my tutorial pictures had a bit too much light in them giving

the tank an incorrect shiny look.

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Happy painting .

Been reading a lot recently and I thought I would

share my views on some of the content.

1st The Americans at Normandy by John C.Mcmanus

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One of the best books around and a very detailed account

of what the Americans did after they got off the beaches at

the Normandy landings. This book goes into great detail about

the lives of everyday soldiers and the problems they had to

overcome at great cost. Its still unbelievable after all the

planning that went into D-Day that not a thought was given

to the bocage countryside awaiting them, which would

prove a far greater obstacle than any beach defence and cost

a huge amount of lives. Compelling reading beginning to end.

2nd WWII Diorama Art by Roy Wells

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This is the first book I have bought off Blurb and I was

extremely pleased with it. Its basically 1/35 scale models

set up in beautiful dioramas but we are talking serious,

serious high quality work. The book covers 20 detailed projects

with high quality glossy images of the superb work. You also get

an inside look towards the end on how the dioramas are built.

For me its something I just pick up now and again when I need

a bit of inspiration or want something to drool over.

3rd Painting Wargame tanks by Ruben Torregrosa & Mig Jimenez

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For those of you that recognise the name, “Jimenez” you

probably know what your going to get and your right. Lots

of painting guides using Mig paints(Vallejo) and pigments.

Lots of glossy step by step guides on painting tanks ,including

an early Sherman, Stuart M5 and a Panther Ausf G, Panzer IV,

Panzer III, SDKFZ 251, T34 and Tiger. The book is also split

up into a beginners section and advanced painter.

All in all a good buy with lots of mouth watering pictures.

4th Painting war WWII German Army by Heresybrush

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I found this book on http://www.breakingwar.com and also on

http://www.heresybrush.com and its a lovely painting guide on

WWII German soldiers. What makes it really specially is that

includes step by step guides on different size models so

even 15mm is catered for. Once again the guide is Vallejo

paint only but this seems to be the norm in most military

painting these days. This is a very detailed guide and on

looking at the contents covers just about every German uniform

going and more. A must for any miniature German soldier painter.

……………………………………………………….

I hope you liked my reading material and the very quick reviews. All

four were good value for money and are very well presented books.

More soon….

Below is a final tally of what I got finished in 2014

to the best of my knowledge. There are quiet a few things

I have left off because they are too small to mention and

I`m sure somebody will remember something else that I have

just plain forgotten about. Lots of things just don’t make it

onto my blog, especially refurbs and smaller projects.

At 1st glance it looks a lot but just remember all the 28mm

stuff and 15mm will each fit onto a single 2×2 board apart

from the larger bits of terrain.

28mm

  • 4 x Blood Angels Command team
  • 1 x Space Hulk Cat
  • 1 x Black Legion rhino
  • 3 x Blood Angel vehicle crew
  • 5 x Blood Angel scouts
  • 5 x Death Wing Terminators
  • 1 x Large Ork Fort
  • 5 x Blood Angel Terminators
  • 24 x Black Legion Choas space marines
  • 5 x Orks
  • 1 Kromlech Ork cannon
  • 3 x Salamander rhinos
  • 1 x Salamnder Landraider
  • 1 Gothic Church battle board(2 x 2 feet)
  • 10 x Orks
  • 5 x Ork Glyphs
  • 1 X Khorne Berserker
  • 1 x Blood Angel Space Marine
  • 1 x Death Wing Terminator old style
  • 1 x Ork Nob
  • 1 x Ork Copter
  • 9 x Gretchin
  • 5 Ork Nobs
  • 12 x Iron Warriors Chaos Space Marines
  • 1 Iron Warriors Rhino
  • 1 Iron Warriors Warsmith
  • 12 x Imperial Guard & 1 Mortar team
  • 12 x Orks
  • 1 x 40k Statue
  • 2 x Imperial Guard Heavy Weapon teams
  • 2 x Iron Warrios Chaos space marines.
  • 1 x Iron Warriors Terminator
  • 1 x Chaos stone bit of terrain

15mm

  • 5 x Panther tanks
  • 3 x Firefly tanks
  • 10 x T26 tanks
  • 1 Horse drawn ambulance
  • 5 x explosion markers
  • 2 x BT5 tanks
  • 1 x Battle board(2 x 2 feet)
  • 1 x Jagdpanther
  • 1 x SU76
  • 1 x Fuel dump
  • 1 x Command bunker
  • 1 x ISU 2 tank
  • 1 X ISU 152 TD
  • 5 x wooden bunkers
  • 1 X Opel Blitz truck
  • 5 x Sherman tanks
  • 4 x Battle Boards(2 x 2 feet)
  • 5 x Cromwell tanks
  • Loads of bocage sections for battle board
  • 37 x British infantry
  • 2 x Sexton guns
  • 3 x Bren Carriers
  • 6 x Universal Carriers
  • 3 x 6pdr guns and crews
  • 1 x Matador truck
  • 8 x British MG teams
  • 13 x British Infantry
  • 1 X Normandy Farm complex
  • 4 x M10 tank Destroyers
  • 1 M18 TD
  • 1 Orchard terrain piece
  • Normandy signs and telegraph poles
  • 2 x Sexton guns
  • 1 x Normandy bridge terrain
  • 3 x Daimler Dingo scout cars
  • 1 x Staghound Scout car
  • 2 X Daimler armoured cars

My plan for 2015 is as follows but I`m bound

to deviate.

1. Lots more tutorials(step by step guides).
2. Lots more terrain.
3. Space Hulk stuff.
4. Infinity.
5. More book reviews.
6. Battle reports.
7. Reports from Wargames shows and museums.
8. Getting to grips with an airbrush.
9. Don’t paint as much stuff as 2014 and concentrate
on the detail and technique.

Finally I have left the piccies until last and

wish to thank everybody who has viewed or commented

on my blog.

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Its just been released today specifically for people playing Flames Of War.
Basically its an online army generator saving you the time and effort to
work out what you can and cannot field on the table.

Here is the official line :

Forces Of War gives you the ability to prepare and refine army lists effortlessly.
This website is an automated tool which lets you trial endless combinations of platoons
and options from Flames Of War Intelligence Briefings until you find the ideal design
for any points level or model collection. Not only does it allow you to build the perfect army list,
but also print it out in an attractive, easy-to-read format, including the appropriate
Arsenal data and Special Rules for your force
.

Beware there is a cost involved but its a lot cheaper than buying all the books.
Rough costs work out at $16 an online briefing compared to a $50 book.
You can also have smaller briefings at a $1 a go. Its also only in ipad format so far, I think ?

Follow the link below : http://forces.flamesofwar.com/index.aspx

A big plus for this as I see it is that its much easier to have a tablet on your
gaming board with all the rules, lists and info than half a dozen large books.
The storage factor is also a large plus as I have shelves of books going dusty.

I will be giving it a go later and will report back.

As the end of the Year is just round the corner I

decided to go for a group shot of my growing British

forces which are being assembled to take on my Panzer

Lehr sledgehammer.

Just click on a picture to enlarge. Be aware these

pictures are quite big 🙂

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Plenty more room on the table so best get painting.

I think some aerial power is required ?

Everybody needs something to stop the Panzers in

their tracks and these babies could do just that.

17pdr guns that had better performance than the

German 75-mm (long) or 88-mm counterparts.

All four are made by Battlefront and I have chopped

and changed the crews to make them as British looking

as possible. Out with helmets and in with the berets and

pipes. The vehicles have 75th Anti-Tank Regiment markings

which once gain fits nicely into the 11th Armoured Division

tree.

Click on an image to enlarge 🙂

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