Posts Tagged ‘German’

Flak1

Some things take an age to complete and this is

a prime example. Its been in a box for over year

and I felt it was time to clear the backlog. Its

made by Cama models and the flak gun sitting in

the middle is a Forged In Battle 2cm Flak Vierling.

I scratch built the raised platform for the flak gun

to sit on(which was a common thing in real life) and

added a base for it all to sit on. There are a few other

scratch built bits on it as well.

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Once again you could use it as an object marker or just

more terrain.

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Been playing around with basing anti tank guns and

wondered what you think of these bases ? Its aimed

to fit with a Normandy background. I think the walls

look a bit too pristine for my liking, perhaps something

a bit more crumbling ruin ?

Please ignore any static grass on the edge of the bases

as its just a tester.

Click on any picky to enlarge.

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14d

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Feedback is very welcome.

Normandy Tiger

Normandy Tiger

Normandy Tiger

I have not painted up any German armour for a long while
so on finding a Battlefront Tiger 1 E early still in my
large box of things I have never got round to painting it was game on.
Now the initial impetus came from finally watching the film, “Fury” and
no need to go into the failings of that film. Linked to a recent trip to
Bovington Tank Museum and a new burst of activity on my Normandy terrain
boards it was full steam ahead. Those of you who know your Battlefront
kits will immediately realise I had a problem because the Tiger has rubber
road wheels, no spare tracks and most importantly no zimmerit on it. All
these things are kind of vital for a Normandy Tiger. My first issue was solved
by a few rubber wheeled Tigers still serving in Normandy specifically I went for
tank number 131 belonging to Ustuf Walter Hahn of the Schwer Abteilung 101 .
Next problem was the Zimmerit, so time to experiment with fine household filler
and a sharp knife. In the end is was rather tricky but worked.

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The model was airbrushed using Vallejo colours and it took me quite a few coats
to get the effect and colour I wanted. Unfortunately I`m no expert with an airbrush
and I`m sure a lot of people would have completed the job a lot quicker than me.
The spare tank tracks attached to the turret are PSC extras and so is part of the
stowage. The helmets are spare from somewhere ?

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Next up being Normandy and the sky being full of Allied planes just itching to bomb
something friendly or not ,some serious camouflage was called for. I have found it
really difficult to get camouflage correct on tanks as 9 times out of ten it just looks
crap. So in my best effort yet I went for the car filter scheme, which has been broken
up into tiny bits and sprayed green and brown . Scatter was then added for effect.
Decals were a problem as I was unable to find any tank numbers in 15mm that are
green with a white outline(colour of the SS 101). I partially solved the issue by
attaching clear decals with white outlines. The green of the tank comes through
the decal, its not perfect but way easier than attempting free hand.

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Hope you like it and the scenic backdrops ?

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I have recently been doing a lot of reading

up on Zimmerit and the mystery surrounding its

limited time span of use.

Zimmerit was a non-magnetic coating produced for German AFV`s

during WW II for the purpose of combating magnetically attached

anti-tank mines. It was developed by the German company Chemische

Werke Zimmer AG and used from 1943-1944. It was basically a cement

type coating which provided small gaps and uneven ridges on the

outside of the tanks stopping magnetic mines being attached.

Strangely the Germans came up with the idea after inventing a

magnetic mine of their own(the Hafthohlladung 3 Mine) specially

to be used against tanks.

The picture below shows a Hafthohlladung courtesy of the

Bunderarchive.

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Unfortunately the Germans believed because

they had created such a mine the allies would surely follow and thus

the invention of zimmerit. In a strange irony the allies never did use

magnetic tank mines.

Zimmerit was applied to tanks as far as I`m aware at the factory and

not in the field. The following description of how zimmerit is applied

is taken from various factual sources including the Haynes Tiger Tank manual,

Military Classic Vehicles, the Bovington archive and the Mike Gibb stug

restoration project.

Zimmerit was made from zinc sulphide, barium sulphate,pine saw dust,

PVA,peeble dust,ochre and pine crystals. The process involves dissolving

the pine crystals in a large quantity of benzene(which is highly flammable and I will come back

to this at a later stage). This creates a sticky golden liquid which

when added to the other ingredients helps the PVA adhere and harden.

Next you are required to trowl on the material to the AFV applying

ridges in a set pattern(they are a number of different patterns). Firstly

a 2mm layer is applied and then from 5cm away a blow lamp is

used to harden and burn off excess moisture. This results in

significant fires. 4 hours or more later a second 4mm layer is

added in the same way. As an example a Stug would require 100kg

of zimmerit to cover it correctly.

Once dry(at least 72hrs) the surface can be painted.

Below is a picture of the zimmerit found on Tiger II.

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This is zimmerit on a Stug III

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The German high command decided in 1944 to stop applying zimmerit

to AFV`s for various reasons. The obvious being it was not needed

as the allies did not use magnetic tank mines , plus is was costly

and time consuming. A further,discarded reason was that

there were reports coming back from the front that zimmerit was

flammable ?

This is the point that interested me in the subject to start

with and has been frowned apon by the military forums for years

and to me it seemed strange. If reports are coming back from front

line units that zimmerit is flammable and is burning up tanks why

disregard the theory point blank,which is what people have been

doing right up until Mike Gibb put people in the picture.

The key to the issue is the benzene and temperature. The application

of zimmerit as described above only works if its warm. If its cold a

number of issues occur. Cold weather stops the benzene from hardening

properly(this cannot be seen by the naked eye or by touch). This un-

hardened surface is then painted over and the paint locks into the benzene

which has not evaporated. The result is a AFV being sent out into combat

just waiting for a round to ignite the benzene!

Now add to the boiling pot that most of the reports are coming back from

the Eastern Front in 43-44 of zimmerit fires where the temperature is hitting

minus 40 in the winter. Plus Germany is losing the war so the need to rush

tanks out of the factory faster and faster creates a time bomb waiting to

ignite, literally.

A number of nations tested the flammable zimmerit theory after the war

and were unable to get it to burn but they were unaware of the application

problem in cold weather and most likely used a correctly applied zimmerit

vehicle that had seen action. We will never know ?

One other thing about zimmerit that was not intended but was a pleasant

surprise noticed by German and Allied tank commanders alike was its

camouflage characteristics . It naturally created an anti-shine to any

tank that had it and broke up the outline of the tank.

Below is a link to the Weald Foundation and Wheatcroft Collection that

restore AFV`s and collected and tested the info on the zimmerit :

http://www.thetankchannel.com/sdkfzstugiii.html

http://www.wheatcroftcollection.com/

Hope you liked the brief explanation on zimmerit and please get

in touch if you know of any extra information. Its always good

to learn a little more. I would be especially interested in

any information on field application of the stuff as there are

a few suggestions on the net about it but no solid proof as yet.

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I have wanted to make a Berge Panzer for some

time and decided on a Panzer III. Why a Panzer III,

well I had a spare FOW Panzer III that never got

built for Early War so it was ideal. Most 15mm

manufacturers already make a Bergepanzer but I

wanted to scratch build one myself.

Its was actually a straight forward build. All I

had to do was build a plasticard box to sit on the chassis

and a winch frame of some sort. I added a few spare

vehicle bits which any decent vehicle recovery unit

would have. I also used a bit of model ship chain, a

model ship pulley and ship rope for the winching gear. The

three crew are from various places.

Please note if you click on a picture it will enlarge.

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Hope you like it ?

Been reading a lot recently and I thought I would

share my views on some of the content.

1st The Americans at Normandy by John C.Mcmanus

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One of the best books around and a very detailed account

of what the Americans did after they got off the beaches at

the Normandy landings. This book goes into great detail about

the lives of everyday soldiers and the problems they had to

overcome at great cost. Its still unbelievable after all the

planning that went into D-Day that not a thought was given

to the bocage countryside awaiting them, which would

prove a far greater obstacle than any beach defence and cost

a huge amount of lives. Compelling reading beginning to end.

2nd WWII Diorama Art by Roy Wells

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This is the first book I have bought off Blurb and I was

extremely pleased with it. Its basically 1/35 scale models

set up in beautiful dioramas but we are talking serious,

serious high quality work. The book covers 20 detailed projects

with high quality glossy images of the superb work. You also get

an inside look towards the end on how the dioramas are built.

For me its something I just pick up now and again when I need

a bit of inspiration or want something to drool over.

3rd Painting Wargame tanks by Ruben Torregrosa & Mig Jimenez

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For those of you that recognise the name, “Jimenez” you

probably know what your going to get and your right. Lots

of painting guides using Mig paints(Vallejo) and pigments.

Lots of glossy step by step guides on painting tanks ,including

an early Sherman, Stuart M5 and a Panther Ausf G, Panzer IV,

Panzer III, SDKFZ 251, T34 and Tiger. The book is also split

up into a beginners section and advanced painter.

All in all a good buy with lots of mouth watering pictures.

4th Painting war WWII German Army by Heresybrush

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I found this book on http://www.breakingwar.com and also on

http://www.heresybrush.com and its a lovely painting guide on

WWII German soldiers. What makes it really specially is that

includes step by step guides on different size models so

even 15mm is catered for. Once again the guide is Vallejo

paint only but this seems to be the norm in most military

painting these days. This is a very detailed guide and on

looking at the contents covers just about every German uniform

going and more. A must for any miniature German soldier painter.

……………………………………………………….

I hope you liked my reading material and the very quick reviews. All

four were good value for money and are very well presented books.

More soon….

Decided to make my Jagdpanther blend in a bit more

with a bit of camo. Take a few bits of electrical wire

and twist them together to make the branches. Next paint

them brown(couple of coats will be needed) and they stick on

your flock with pva glue. I painted lighter colours(yellows and

browns) onto the flock before sticking it on. I then got me a bit

of cheese cloth and dipped it in a mixer of Agrax wash and green

paint and then dried it in the conservatory for a camo net. Now

just stick your camo net onto your vehicle and thread through the

branches.

Click on picture for bigger size.

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I have left this camo net hang loose but you can apply it slightly

damp and mold it to the vehicle shape.

Just finished by Battlefront plastic Jagdpanther and I`m very

pleased with it. The cheaper plastic kit(there is a metal version) is

just as good and comes with a ruined building(not shown). Once again I

really could not be bothered getting the airbrush out for a couple of

minutes use and then spending an hour cleaning it so free hand time

with the camouflage.

Please click on pictures for larger size.

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The interesting part about this small project for me was the bocage

itself. I knew what bocage was and have been all over Normandy and seen

the stuff first hand. What was compelling was the constant argument on

various forums about should bocage have stone at the bottom of it ? Well

the first hand and most accurate answer is yes and no. Some bocage is built

up on age old(Middle ages or later) walls and some is not. Quite often stone is

used on hill sections of bocage and deep cuttings. Farmers in general clear fields

and push stone to the side and leave it. It is then overgrown by weeds and becomes

part of the bank/hedge.

The second compelling bit of information I came across after reading up on the

subject was the way enemy tanks were killed in the bocage. First initial thought

was great big dirty tank destroyer behind a hedge kills all(the Jagdpanther for example),

but you couldn’t be more wrong.

In bocage country 54% of tank kills were caused by gunfire(tank,anti tank,td and arty),

20% by mines,13% by non combat(stuck in mud or mechanical failure),7% by Panzerfaust

and the remaining 6% by miscellaneous.

If we then look at the 54% in more detail ,Britsh and American studies show that half

of theses kills were attributed to Stugs and by direct frontal penetration at an

average 800 yards. Forget the Jagdpanthers,Panzer I`Vs,PAK 43 man handled and arty the Stug

was the main man in the bocage!

Anyway I`m building a Normandy board as we speak to look out for hand crafted bocage with

and without stones and a few lurking Stugs.

Panthers

Posted: January 8, 2014 in 15mm, Battlefront, Flames Of War, WW2
Tags: , ,

Back to WW2 German tanks and this time its Panthers.

I have left off any distinguishing marks so I can use

them from 1943-45.

The paint scheme was a lot better than the Tiger.

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Hardest part of these Panthers was the decals. I have small

fingers and its still murder trying to put them on.

Its finished, but I`m not happy with it.

Quite a few mistakes in construction and I don’t like the paint job. Oh the photos are`nt much good either.

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On the plus side it was all a learning curve so the mark II will be better.