Posts Tagged ‘Scratch Building’

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This has been taking shape for ages and I`m just

glad to finally say, done !

The building is based on Pegasus Hobbies parts,

plus balsa wood to make the various floor beams.

The church ruin is based on a normal GW board with

styrofoam providing the Japanese style castle, raised

base. I wanted it to look like a statement on the

surrounding flat landscape. I have tested the space

available for defenders and it easily holds 75 Chaos

Marines and a Rhino 🙂

I bought the steps at the front off fleabay for £6 and

the inner damaged staircase was another £8 off fleabay

as well.

Click on a picky to enlarge 🙂

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I`m thinking of filling it with Imperial Guard and

sending an Ork Waaagh against it 🙂

Cant remember his name and he`s got a broken sword

so he volunteered to be a statue. The bottom of the

mount is a 1/72 scale tank base and a wooden printing

block above it. The best bit for me was the creeping vine

which is horse hair(got a riding stables next door to me and

its all over the road),microwaved to kill anything unwanted and

dyed in wash and paint. Add some pva glue and on with the scatter

by Tremendus.

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In the picture he is sitting on a red Martian looking

background and as of yet is still to get some red

weathering to blend in.

In think he needs to go outside a temple or city complex ?

As I was building in the shed I went all out and

had a go at Teddy Bear fur fields.

Once again trusty ebay did the job and up

turned a bag of hair. After reading online I

found an old pair of clippers and lowered the height

of the fur which must start at about at least 2 inches

or more. Anyway either the clippers were blunt or who

knows what, but it was useless. Plan B came into force

and out came the trustee scissors which worked a treat.

I cut a lowered section of fur through the middle so it looked

like a natural path.

Now for the colour. The fur comes as a natural creamy/

brown which is great as grass is usually that colour

towards the bottom, away from sunlight. I borrowed the

kids hogs hair brush(big fat thing) and dry brushed

acrylic paint into the fur, trying to only paint the

top third of the fur. I basically started with a dark

green and got steadily lighter.

1st shot after 1st lot of paint:

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2nd shot, more paint:

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3rd shot surrounded by bocage:

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I think it worked out well and once surrounded by

additional terrain such as walls and hedges it will

look even better.

Deep in the depths of my shed I have been experimenting

with the bocage and have finally got a winner, perhaps ?

Step One:

Polystyrene was used for the banking(light and dirt cheap)

and cut to shape, then pva glued. I based one on 3mm mdf

and didn’t bother with the other. The cocktail sticks

are just to hold it together while gluing.

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Step Two:

Add some twigs from the garden as tree trunks and glue

into place.

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Step Three:

I used standard house hold filler to smooth off the bank

and any sharp edges. I then cover everything in pva glue

and added a mix of sand and stone for texture. Let dry.

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Step Four:

Paint brown with house hold paint.

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Step Five:

More pva glue over all and add your flock/scatter mix.

I tried all green at 1st but found the brown gave it a

better look.

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Step Six:

Grab your self some rubberised horse hair(ebay was cheap)

and separate it out into thin bits. It comes as a thick

section and reminds me of horse jumping hedges. Now with

your pva glue again thread between your twig trees and glue

down. I found you had to put weights on the horse hair while

gluing as it springs up otherwise. I added a bit of moss as

well.

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Step Seven:

Using a spray bottle(50/50 pva glue and water) spray the

horse hair with your glue mix. Now sprinkle on your scatter

so it looks like leaves. Leave it dry over night.

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This is what it looks like next to a field and with a tank in:

Click on the image to get a bigger version 🙂

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I tried two other methods of making bocage from moss but

was not happy with the outcome.

Also the bocage next to field is not 100% finished and

needs a bit of airbrushing here and there.

What do you think ?

I need to get my lava painting skills up to scratch and was

wondering how everybody else paints lava ?

These two are examples I have experimented on. Please note the Terminator

was not painted by me. I only made and painted the base on the Terminator.

I used plasticard to built up the bases. Black base coat and Dawnstone dry brush

for the rocks. The lava was basically Dark red through to orange and a tiny white

line through the middle.

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Came across a metal Ork Nob, painted very badly,in
one of a large number of dust covered boxes I have.
He originally came with a mace and axe and I
suspected him to be more Warhammer fantasy than 40k,
but on checking he appears in Orks Collectors Guide
as part of the classic range. Saying that I still suspect
he has a very close twin look a like in the fantasy range ?

Anyway removed the axe and mace(replaced with shoota in each
hand),added a boss pole made from spare parts and plasticard,
added additional armour(back plate and jaw plate) and put
him on a jazzed on base.

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Now he looks like an Ork moving up in the world of
Ork hierarchy until somebody bigger rips of his arms
and hangs them on their own boss pole.

Needed something to sit next to my panzers

and just remind everybody that Blitzkrieg was not

all lightning warfare. The vast majority of the

German army went to war on foot or was pulled

by a horse. In this case they came back by horse.

It was built from balsa wood, two Napoleonic horses

from Essex miniatures and some wire.

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Road tested this rig, the weekend just gone and

found the perfect use for it. After an hour of

play out comes the horse drawn ambulance telling

all players its time for a cup of tea and a break.

Instant Mold

Posted: August 5, 2013 in 40k, Scratch Built
Tags:

I`m always needing spare vehicle hatches for rhinos and the going rate on ebay is £2 a hatch plus £2 postage. As I`m not going to pay that,time to have a go at making some myself .

Bring on the Instant Mold at £12 a packet. You get six mold sticks and you can re-use them as many times as you like.

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First of all build yourself a quick lego molding cast.

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Next boil a kettle and drop a couple of Intant Mold sticks into a bowl of boiling water for about 2mins.

Next remove one Instant Mold from the bowl(Its safe to handle with your hands and is still semi solid) and

put it in the bottom of the lego cast .Press it down firmly.

Next drop in your part to mold(rhino hatch) and push it down firmly into the Instant Mold so only the bottom

part of the hatch is sub merged. The top of the hatch should still be visible.

Now put the next bit of Instant Mold on top of the hatch in the cast and press it down firmly.

Leave for 20 mins to cool.

Now carefully take apart the lego cast and you should have a solid mold.Using a sharp craft knife cut the mold

in half so you have a top and bottom mold.

The picture below is the molds cut in half. I did two hatches at the same time.

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Now fill the molds with green stuff and then stick the molds back together(top and bottom) and leave to dry.

Once the green stuff is hard gently remove it from the mold and you have your cast rhino hatch.

Trim the green stuff to remove any flash.

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Insert into rhino and check it fits.

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Granted the mold is not perfect but this was my first attempt and apart from the drying time of the green stuff its a very quick and easy process.

Its also a lot less money than buying the parts and open ups loads of possibilities for duplicating parts and scratch building your own bits.

When the paint is on,who will ever know its a mold ?